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  • 编辑:  赵峦   稿源: 中国日报网站    2005-05-27 09:26:08
    [双语新闻]夏天酷热难耐 日本职业服装改革计划启动
      Suits Aren't Cool Enough for Japan
    摘要:
        夏日清晨,在拥挤的通勤火车上,在东京市中心的办公室里,你总能看见他们忙碌的身影:他们身穿毛料或涤纶质地的衣服,在华氏90度(约32摄氏度)的高温下挥汗如雨。他们就是工薪一族,日本经济迅猛发展的支柱。但是,对他们来讲,夏天远不是舒适享受的时候,而是酷热难耐的季节。
        You see them every summer morning, in the packed commuter trains and offices of Central Tokyo: men dressed in wool and polyester, sweating in the 90F heat. These are the salarymen, the warriors of the Japanese economy, for whom summer is a season more to be endured than enjoyed.

        夏日清晨,在拥挤的通勤火车上,在东京市中心的办公室里,你总能看见他们忙碌的身影:他们身穿毛料或涤纶质地的衣服,在华氏90度(约32摄氏度)的高温下挥汗如雨。他们就是工薪一族,日本经济迅猛发展的支柱。但是,对他们来讲,夏天远不是舒适享受的时候,而是酷热难耐的季节。

        从六月到九月,整个日本都笼罩在闷热潮湿之中。这让那些身穿制服上班的办公室一族苦不堪言,因为这些制服更适合在冬天穿,而不是夏天。不过,如果工薪族穿着T恤上班的话,就像武士没带佩刀一样别扭,何况日本的商务服饰礼仪已经有150年的历史,还从来没有遇到大的挑战。

        本周,日本政府启动了一项野心勃勃的计划,旨在重塑日本商务人士的形象。这项计划由服装设计师、著名商场及大企业的首脑们共同发起,并由日本首相小泉纯一郎亲自挂帅领导。

        此项计划的英文名称是Cool Biz (清凉商务)。发起此项计划的原因既简单又严肃。1997年,联合国气候大会在日本京都召开,会上通过了《京都议定书》。签署《京都议定书》的国家将确保在2012年前将二氧化碳等6 种温室气体的排放量在1990年的基础上减少6%。而直到现在日本还远未能实现其降低破坏臭氧层气体的排放量的既定目标。2003年,日本气体的排放量反而比1990年增加了8%。

        这些气体大多数都来自空调。在天气炎热的月份,空调都在隆隆的运转。因此,小泉首相下令,自六月一日起,所有的政府办公室都必须把空调的温度设定在摄氏28度(华氏82.4度)。这个温度略高于东京八月份的平均气温,会让那些穿西服打领带的人感到难以忍受。这样空调很少能发挥作用,因此日本政府提起了“清凉商务”的计划,劝说上班族们解下领带、松开扣子、脱掉夹克。

        日本著名的服装设计师小条弘子说:“要想改变日本男人,那真是太难了。这是一项很有挑战性的工作。”应政府的要求,她已经设计了几款凉爽的男士服装。

        在日本,除了在非常年轻的时装及网络公司之外,星期五便装日从来都没有真正流行过。日本前首相羽田孜曾建议把传统服装的衣袖自肘部剪下,以节省能源,结果证明此建议愚蠢之至,因为如此一来,衣服就像是吃醋的情人发了疯,也成为人们大肆嘲弄的对象。羽田孜因此声名狼藉。

        日本办公室中严格的等级制度是实施此项计划的最大的障碍,因为对大多数工薪族来讲,如果事先未征得老板的同意就贸然进行革新,其后果是难以想象的。

        You see them every summer morning, in the packed commuter trains and offices of Central Tokyo: men dressed in wool and polyester, sweating in the 90F heat. These are the salarymen, the warriors of the Japanese economy, for whom summer is a season more to be endured than enjoyed.

        From June to September, a fug of humidity falls across Japan, tormenting office workers dressed in a uniform more appropriate for winter. But a salaryman in a T-shirt would be like a samurai without his sword, and there has been no serious challenge to Japan's business dress code for 150 years.

        This week the Japanese Government embarks on an ambitious scheme to reinvent the appearance of the Japanese businessman. It is being pioneered by fashion designers, famous department stores and captains of industry, and led by Junichiro Koizumi, the Prime Minister, himself.

        The idea behind the initiative - christened with the English words "Cool Biz" - is simple and serious. Japan is lamentably behind in reaching its targets for reduction of ozone-depleting gases, despite hosting the 1997 Kyoto Conference at which they were set. The stated goal is to reduce 1990 levels by 6 per cent by the year 2012. But in 2003, emissions were up by 8 per cent on the base year.

        Much of these come from the air-conditioning units, which thrum in Japanese offices during the hot months. So Mr Koizumi has ordered that from June 1 government offices should set the thermostats on their air conditioners for 28C (82.4F) - a little more than Tokyo's average

        August temperature and intolerable in a suit and tie. The air conditioning will rarely come on, so the Government has launched Cool Biz to persuade salarymen to take off their ties, unbutton their shirts and cast off their jackets instead.

        "Japanese men are so hard to change," says Hiroko Koshino, a distinguished fashion designer who has devised a range of cool men's clothes at the Government's request. "It's a very, very challenging task."

        Except at the most youthful of fashion and dot-com companies, casual Fridays never really caught on in Japan. Tsutomu Hata, a former Prime Minister is notorious for his ill-advised energy-saving office wear, created by simply chopping off the arms of conventional suits at the elbow. The garments looked as if a jealous lover had run amok, and are widely held to have set back the cause of dressing down in Japan.

        The biggest obstacle is the strict hierarchy still operating in Japanese offices - for most salarymen it is unthinkable to indulge any innovation which has not previously been adopted by the boss.

     

     



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